#1Acne Studios
Stockholm fashion house founded in 1996 by Jonny Johansson, known for oversized tailoring, mohair knitwear, denim and the Musubi bag.
#1Stockholm fashion house founded in 1996 by Jonny Johansson, known for oversized tailoring, mohair knitwear, denim and the Musubi bag.
#2American minimalist label under PVH, known for logo-waistband underwear, denim and clean basics, with a revived Calvin Klein Collection runway line.
#3American denim company founded in 1853, known for the 501 jean and Trucker jacket and still headquartered in San Francisco.
#4European-run fashion offshoot of American workwear brand Carhartt, reworking Detroit jackets and duck canvas staples for skate and streetwear audiences.
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#5Osaka-founded Japanese denim brand known for hand-painted seagull back pockets, selvedge jeans and Y2K-era streetwear staples.
#6American workwear label behind the 874 work pant, sold by VF Corporation to Bluestar Alliance in a $600 million deal announced September 2025.
#7Japanese denim and workwear label from Kojima, Okayama, known for boro patchwork, sashiko stitching and indigo-dyed remake pieces.
#8American streetwear label founded in 2003 by Pharrell Williams and Nigo, known for space-themed graphics, arrow logos and its ICECREAM sister line.
#9Founder-owned British luxury streetwear label from Manchester, known for graphic jersey, leather and its 247 performance activewear line.
#10New York menswear label reworking American classics, founded in 2011 and owned by American Eagle Outfitters since 2015.
#11Founder-led Stockholm ready-to-wear label known for custom-developed fabrics, reworked wardrobe staples and its upcycled Our Legacy Work Shop line.
#12Los Angeles label founded in 2013 by Jerry Lorenzo, pairing oversized streetwear silhouettes with luxury fabrics and muted, neutral palettes.
#13Founder-led Paris label mixing Provençal-inflected minimalism, cropped tailoring and miniature Le Chiquito bags with theatrical outdoor runway shows.
#14Independent Montreal skate label founded in 2005, known for deadpan-humour graphics, cozy basics, Vans collaborations and its Glory Challenge contest.
#15Beams Plus is the Tokyo-based heritage menswear line of retailer Beams, reworking classic American Ivy, workwear and military styles in Japan.
#16Independent Tokyo label by Ryota Iwai, building relaxed menswear and womenswear around custom-developed Japanese textiles and muted colour.
#17Tremaine Emory's independent American label using cotton-wreath denim and graphics to tell African diaspora histories through streetwear.
#18Defunct Paris label, founded 2010 and led by Glenn Martens, known for twisted denim and deconstructed, gender-fluid tailoring; ceased operations January 2025.
#19Tokyo label from Seilin & Co., making Japanese-made clothing dyed with natural plant indigo using shibori, katazome and boro techniques.
#20Copenhagen label founded in 2008, known for vintage-style eyewear plus workwear- and sportswear-rooted menswear and womenswear with a subcultural Scandinavian edge.
Streetwear denim splits into three fits, and picking the right one matters more than the label. For a true straight leg, Levi's 501 Original is still the benchmark — mid-rise, straight through the thigh, no stretch — with the 511 for slim and the loose 90s-era cuts for something baggier. Dickies is the workwear parallel: the 874 work pant is a full straight leg with a permanent crease, and the 873 is the slimmer straight version of the same pattern; most core pieces sell under $100. Carhartt WIP cuts its duck canvas and denim bottoms boxy and short-rise, which is why they sit so well over skate shoes.
For Japanese denim, expect heavier fabric and more hand-work. Evisu builds around selvedge jeans with the hand-painted or embroidered seagull on the back pocket and Daicock prints — the Y2K look, priced mid-high. Kapital, made in Kojima, Okayama, runs loom-woven selvedge into boro-patched, sashiko-stitched and Century Denim indigo pieces; it is the most decorated and the most expensive of the group (L Catterton took a majority stake in 2024). Blue Blue Japan dyes its denim in fermented plant-indigo vats with shibori and katazome patterning, so pairs fade unevenly and personally with wear.
Acne Studios literally began as a small run of raw denim jeans in 1996 and now leans wide-leg — the most fashion-forward loose silhouette here, at high pricing. Our Legacy treats denim like the rest of its wardrobe: custom-developed fabrics, washed and treated finishes, wide legs, with the Our Legacy Work Shop line rebuilding deadstock into limited pairs. Fear of God's mainline relaxed trousers and denim come in heavy Italian-milled fabric and muted neutrals; its cheaper Essentials diffusion line is where the volume sits, but it is mostly sweats rather than denim, so buy mainline if jeans are the goal. Denim Tears is the graphic pick: the cotton-wreath motif printed on Levi's 501s, so you get 501 fit with a narrative print. Han Kjøbenhavn and Represent both do washed, distressed denim with a rock edge at med-high prices.
Y/Project is defunct as of January 2025 — its twisted and doubled denim, plus the Diesel and Jean Paul Gaultier collaborations, only circulate on resale now. Everything else on this list is still producing.
Levi's 501 Original if you want a straight, non-stretch mid-rise jean at low-to-mid pricing, or the Dickies 874 if you prefer a workwear straight leg with a pressed crease for under $100. Both are the reference fits everything else on this page reacts against.
Levi's, Dickies and Calvin Klein Jeans all sit in the low-to-mid tier; Carhartt WIP and Dime are mid. Kapital, Acne Studios and Fear of God are the high end, and Jacquemus is higher still.
Kapital works from Kojima in Okayama, the centre of Japanese denim, using loom-woven selvedge. Its jeans and jackets carry boro patchwork, sashiko stitching, indigo-dyed Century Denim treatments and heavy distressing — the most hand-worked denim on this list, and priced accordingly.
They are two different tiers of the same brand. Essentials is the lower-priced diffusion line built largely on hoodies, sweats and basics; the mainline Fear of God collections are where you find relaxed trousers and denim in heavy Italian-milled fabric.
Not new. Y/Project entered receivership and announced closure in January 2025 after Glenn Martens exited, so its twisted and doubled denim is second-hand and resale only.
Mostly from the brands themselves: Levi's, Acne Studios, Carhartt WIP, Represent, Dime and Han Kjøbenhavn all run their own stores and webshops, Beams Plus sells through Beams in Japan plus SSENSE and End, and Represent is carried by Selfridges, Harrods and Harvey Nichols. disco is a directory, so we point you to those brands rather than selling anything.
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